Watch out for Boxers food allergies however. Recently, concerns over Boxers eating large amounts of grapes or raisins can be toxic, leading to acute kidney failures.

#2 Keep it Healthy

Of course the chief element here is to feed him a balanced diet.

Moreover, other owners also advise consulting the vet about giving Boxers calcium tablets as they could have some problems later on in life!

Note that Boxers are shorthaired and sensitive to extreme elements of the weather. Therefore, they must be kept as housedogs.

Exercise, Exercise, Exercise is a keyword in the Boxer's health status. For instance, walk them three times a day and play with them.

I'll tell you a secret a Boxer-lover told me several years ago, keep in touch with the breeder who sold you the Boxer. The breeder can advise you about care and health matters that are unique to the breed.

#3 Watch out for Worms

Worms are like a terrible nightmare to both the owner and the dog itself. The most common types if worms that infect dogs include tapeworm, roundworm, ringworm and heartworm.

A worm entracted Boxer would lose weight and become weak, suffer from upset stomach, poor growth, listlessness or even lung trouble.

Worms are parasitic and hence eat up the dog's nutrients. Hence, they may impede your puppy's growth and cause him to have a potbelly, be thin and have a shoddy-looking coat.

Roundworms are highly dangerous, as infected dogs can pass them on to children!

A quick and easy solution to the worm problem is to de-worm your Boxer puppy every month and your grown Boxer, every 6 months.

#4 Take Care of Your Sick Boxer

Just like almost any other living organism, Boxers are prone to several potential health problems like: skin allergies, food allergies, cancer, hip dysphasia, bloat, heart ailments, hypothyroidism, fleas, and worms.

Try to get acquainted with the most common diseases that affect Boxer dogs in your region. Books and sources may be found on the Internet or in local bookshops.

Once you get to know them, you'll be able to better monitor your pet's health. And, in case of an illness, you'll know how to assist your veterinarian to administer the correct diagnosis and treatment.

To help you in your search, I'll list the most common diseases that Boxer dogs are prone to:
Bloat, Cancerous and benign tumors, Cryptorchidism, Eye ulcers, Dermodicosis, Atopy, Acne, Urinary incontinence, Deafness, Epilepsy/seizure disorder, -Bradycardia, -Dialated cardiomyopathy, Hip dysplasia, Hyperadrenocorticism, Hypothyroidism, Intervertebral disk disease, Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS), Kidney problem, Progressive axonopathy.

Well, I hope that helped! Once you're settled down and used to the dog, enjoy his unmatched company and friendship. Take good care of your dog, and your dog will take good care of you, too!

#1 You must train the dog while he's still a puppy.

#2 Feed your puppy at regular times everyday as this makes bathroom breaks regular as well. Once done eating, take the puppy to a grassy "potty area", and say the words "go potty" before and while he is eliminating. Don't forget to pat him once done.

#3 Talk to Boxers like you would to children when they do something wrong. Sounds odd? Well, no actually, it's quite simple.

Just say "no" when they do something wrong and show them what the correct behavior should be.

Just like with children, you need to reward them once they do the right thing.

#4 Never beat the dog up! Only reprimand on the onset of a wrong action and so only with your voice.

#5 Note that research showed that the more often a puppy (and later dog) is rewarded, the faster and more efficient the learning process becomes.

For instance, if you don't praise the dog for lying down quietly and playing with his own toys rather than chewing up the furniture, I assure you he'll turn violent in no time! Be warned however that scolding should be balanced out with appraise with opposite actions!

#6 Umm...What type of rewards should I give my boxer? Actually, treats be their favorite food, toy or something the Boxer really loves to do.

#7 Play with the Boxer! Boxers love playing. It is vital that whenever practicing any obedience training and upon finishing, the owner and his Boxer should enjoy a play time.

Play time can include running and throwing the dog's favorite toys, go for rides, or even playing football!

# 8 Groom the Boxer. Despite the fact that boxers tend to keep themselves clean, you still need to bathe and/or currycomb it occasionally and tidy up his short, hard coat with a soft brush.

Apart from the fact that you might actually enjoy the process, this will tend to strengthen your relationship with the Boxer.

#9 Trim the Boxer's nails regularly, or if your Boxer is sensitive with regard to its paws they could get naturally worn down by hard surface.

#10 Regular visits to the veterinarian are important. Ask him to remove tartar from your Boxer's teeth periodically, especially as it grows older. You may even learn how to do it yourself, but it is a little disgusting!

Through practicing all these points combined, I'm sure you'll be able to take good care of your Boxer dog and train him to be your personal friend!

There are a few other small points you'll learn about with time.

Good luck!

Many might inquire behind the specialty of Boxers over other types of dogs; since all pet dogs generally have similar traits. In fact, Boxers have highly specific qualities that you should know before buying one.

You should also note that, although inexpensive to maintain; they require your consistent attention, exercise, human interaction, consistent obedience training and lots of love.

Boxers dogs mimic much of the human characteristics, particularly those of their loving owners. They're strong and intelligent, but need physical and mental stimulations to keep them even-tempered and dignified while still keeping their playful spirit and fearless courage intact.

Try to control their "high prey drive" (or "play drive") outlets or they could get destructive as house pets. Evidently, the female is more aggressive than the male.

Try to always keep Boxers busy!

Tire them out with long walks, 3 times a day. Give them plenty of exercise and play with them, especially the probing boxer puppies.

Otherwise - and be warned - they'd tear up your home out of boredom, excessive energy and frustration. In return to your love and care, expect wet slobbery drool and kisses!

As a Boxer-lover once said: "Boxer dogs think they are human. Treat them like one - love them, talk to them, cuddle them and value them and you will get your love back unconditionally 10,000 times."

So are you ready for them?

Hold on, before answering this question, remember that you need to be there for them. You need to give them love and attention. So it's a "no" if you're busy full time!

Boxers dogs need constant attention and love to be babied. Treat your Boxer as your best friend and play, play, play with him. One three-month old Boxer loves her bath more when the owner sings to her. Whatever the activity is, just give them the attention they love!

The other side of Boxers is that they can become very destructive when lonely, bored and ignored. One is known to jump over 6-footer fences if the owner is gone for too long.

When you have to leave Boxers alone, you better make sure they have a toy they really like or they'll find something to do that you probably really won't like.

Another point to consider is that the costs for food, training, grooming, medical care, toys and other supplies do add up.

Considering the destructive streak in Boxers dogs, you have to go for obedience training, in order to prevent the destruction of too many of your belongings. Training makes a happier dog - and certainly a happier owner.

Experts suggest that, when adopting a Boxer, you should at least check the parent dogs for undesirable traits, namely: aggression, hyperactivity and extreme shyness, before even looking at the puppies.

Now, do you think you're ready to choose one?

Rule number one; always start by checking out the parent dogs for defective traits like aggression, hyperactivity and extreme shyness.

Be careful and doubtful if you are getting your Boxer puppy from regular pet stores that often get their supply from breeders of unknown reputation.

As experts put it forth, breeders of unknown reputation are called "puppy mills". These "puppy mills" do not emphasis the standards of quality and health of the puppies they are producing.

On the other hand, reputable breeders usually follow and abide by the accepted standards for Boxers in terms of uniformity in the breed, good health, temperament, size and color.

Reputable breeders would be able to show the lineage and registration papers and/or pictures of the parent dogs that may even be sold to other owners.

The third type of breeders is the "Professional" one. Those professional breeders are also there to produce dog show champions or prospects.

If you're looking for a champion Boxer, then "professional breeders" would be your ultimate source.

Otherwise, it would be greatly worthwhile to check out known breeders as they can almost always provide you with some "best buy" puppies. This is mainly due to the fact that not all the puppies in a litter are show prospect/champion materials.

In any case, these puppies would still have the pure blood, nutrition and medical care. You could even get them for a bargain price!

Your other source option is animal shelters that in the US alone receive up to 12 million homeless dogs and cats every year, and about 25% of them are purebred. Paying the adoption fee is a lot cheaper than the price you will pay to a breeder or pet store, and you will be saving a life.

When you address the concept of good stock or purebred in dogs, it must include beauty. In a Boxer, good looks means that the coat is fawn and brindle, with the white markings or "flash" covering not more than one-third of the entire coat.

It is as important as any other quality in Boxer dogs. Sometimes the distribution of the "flash" alone may make the difference between a show champion and just a pet Boxer.

All-white Boxer or "check" dogs have hereditary risks. They're prone to blindness and deafness, and the American Boxer Club members are not to register, sell or use the "whites" for breeding.

It doesn't make much difference to choose a male or a female. At times, the male is calmer, more tolerant of other dogs, willing to hold still for those hugs than the female.

But at other times, the female can be so. One owner said the female Boxer is hyper and more aggressive especially toward other females, and that the aggression has increased as the female gets older.

In any case, there are no documented studies of the personality differences between male and female Boxer dogs. I believe they're pretty much the same once you get down to choosing whatever you porefer!

Notably, Boxers are good-natured, accept friendly strangers and will calmly suffer the stabs of children.

Discipline your dog!

It's a matter of thinking and working a step ahead of your Boxer. Again, you should do it with love and firmness.

Moreover, a Boxer that is well behaved today may not remain so forever. Dog's behavior constantly changes; so make the discipline constant.

Train your dog!

A trained Boxer will listen and can safely be allowed freedom more than an untrained one.

It is important to know that a disciplined Boxer is more confident is a wonderful smart, soulful and people-oriented companion.

On the other hand, a poorly trained dog can be a loud and destructive irritation around the house, becoming more of a burden on you rather than bliss.

Just like human beings, they're best taught young! It's much easier to teach him not to pull on the leash when he's a small puppy than to try to educate him when he's too old for it.

Just like I did with my dog, begin the training some place that is familiar to your Boxer, where there is minimum distraction.

Hold on! Remember socialization is also an important part of the training because you don't want to end up with a very shy Boxer.

One of the most important qualities of Boxer dogs is their intelligence, and at the same time, their stubbornness.

When you understand the Boxer's intelligence/stubbornness, you'll be able to handle it well, and hence avoid problems while disciplining and training them.

Use their "play training" time as the Boxers' motivation while training them. You may research your local libraries for such training material.

Employ whatever it takes to train your dog in the most fun manner possible. Try to use proven tactics to make your Boxers listen to you more.

Try to always play the puppy's level so that when he grows up he doesn't get used to jump and initiate play. For instance, play games at their own (close to the ground) level.

I know these pieces of advice may sound tiresome and hectic to follow, but believe me, it's not only important to abide by the general guideline than to be sorry later on.

Happy training!

Play helps puppies develop important skills (such as hunting and fighting techniques) through practice, and it also affects their social development. Play between puppies is often rough and uncontrolled, and at times escalates to competitive aggression. Littermates pull on each other’s tails and paws, bite ears, chase and pounce on one another, wrestle, bark and growl. All the while, they are learning how powerful they are, and where they rank in comparison to other members of their “pack.” By eight weeks old, when puppies are commonly separated from their siblings and introduced to their new homes, they already have an understanding of pack dynamics and ideas about how to elevate their social standing.

Your main goal in training appropriate play should be control of aggressive behavior and proper channeling of your Boxer’s energy and intelligence. Never use play to reinforce your authority through hard-handed domination in competitive games! Instead, strive to keep your Boxer’s attention focused on you as a leader and instigator of fun games, and a source of rewards for appropriate play behavior.

Avoid games that resemble “tug-of-war.” Never encourage or allow your Boxer to play with hands, feet, or clothing, no matter how young your puppy might be or how harmless this may seem. Do not encourage your Boxer to jump on or at you, and avoid chasing and wrestling games. All of these arouse your Boxer’s natural, aggressive instincts, and invite it to threaten your authority.

Controlled play should be goal oriented and allow your Boxer plenty of opportunities to earn your praise. Teaching your Boxer to fetch, playing hide and seek with toys, and practicing tricks are all examples of constructive, appropriate play. Avoid teasing your Boxer, as it will likely become frustrated very quickly and turn its attention away from you. Remember to offer treats and praise whenever your Boxer plays appropriately, even if this involves nothing more than bouncing a ball by itself or running after a toy you have thrown.

Boxers are comedians, and with their owners’ encouragement, they learn to discover and invent games themselves. Rules established during appropriate play training encourage your Boxer to use its intelligence and natural curiosity to invent fun, safe, stimulating games you both can enjoy.

Start training at approximately 8 weeks old if you have a new puppy. Begin with the simplest commands and work up to the more challenging ones. Once Sit and Down are mastered, add Stay, then Heel, and lastly, Come. Training sessions should be short, but frequent. Two or three 5 to 10 minute sessions a day are better than one 30 minute session every two days. Boxers are easily bored and distracted, and you want to make training fun, not a chore. Have training sessions when your Boxer is somewhat tired and a little hungry, such as in between meals and after play sessions. Boxers that are “wound up” or have a full belly are much less likely to pay attention.

No matter what command you are training, the basic steps are the same. Get your Boxer to focus on you, say its name, and then speak the command. Next, entice or gently guide it into the position of whatever command you are training. Reward the position with praise and treats immediately, and repeat the process. Look for opportunities throughout the day for your Boxer to practice and show off the learned behavior, and reward it every time.

When speaking your Boxer’s name and commands, be sure to use a friendly, calm tone of voice, and be very gentle when you are guiding your Boxer into position. If you become impatient, or your Boxer begins to struggle with you, end the training session. Never use obedience commands in conjunction with or as a means of punishment, even if you are using them stop undesirable behavior.

Some Boxer owners train “Off” and “No” in conjunction with the five basic obedience commands, but use them sparingly. Boxers love to jump on everything, and a Boxer wouldn’t be a Boxer if it wasn’t somewhat mischievous! Be wary of focusing too much attention on what your dog does wrong. Boxers are independent thinkers, and they tend to block out reprimands given too often, or do what they want regardless of them. Reprimanding is a form of positive reinforcement, just as giving praise is. Your Boxer will learn that it gets what it craves – your attention - for the wrong behavior. A much better approach is to end the undesirable behavior by replacing it with a desirable one, and rewarding the replacement behavior.

Once they are mastered, be sure to practice obedience commands with your Boxer in a variety of places, with increasing levels of distraction. Use them to help socialize your Boxer, and as a tool that allows it to enjoy more freedom.

To prevent destructive behavior, keep your Boxer confined whenever it is not directly supervised. Put plenty of safe toys in its crate or playpen, and be sure nothing outside is in reach. Older Boxers chew for pleasure and to alleviate boredom, but puppies often chew to ease teething discomfort. A variety of toys is best for any age, but offer a specially designed puppy teether to young Boxers.

Keep a variety of toys available when your Boxer is out of its crate or playpen, too. Nylabones, gumabones, and Kongs are durable, safe options. Quality rope bones, latex toys, dog tennis balls, and fleece or canvas plush toys add variety in texture. Boxers should only have toys sized to fit their large mouths. Rotate for a flow of “new” toys to keep chewing fun and entertaining. Discard and replace worn out items regularly

Edible treats such as rawhide bones or pigs’ ears should not be given to puppies. They can interfere with digestion, disrupt your puppy’s feeding schedule, and cause unexpected “accidents.” As your Boxer matures, you may consider introducing pressed rawhide products and sterile bones, but never allow their chewing unattended. Choking is a real hazard with edibles, so they are not a safe crate or playpen option.

Praise your Boxer often whenever you see it chewing appropriately. Should destructive chewing occur, take the item away immediately. Offer a substitution, and praise your Boxer for accepting the replacement. Keep toys everywhere so you never miss an opportunity to help your Boxer learn.

At worst, chewing may be destructive, but biting is a real danger. Never allow your Boxer to tug on hands or feet, or bite or chew on skin! Boxers are very social by nature, so one of the best ways to handle biting is to stop play immediately if a nip occurs. “Yelp” in mock pain to startle your pup out of play, give a firm “no” and leave the room. Return a few minutes later with a toy, and praise your puppy when play resumes.

With consistent repetition, your Boxer should learn that biting isn’t fun. If biting persists, calmly end playtime by placing your Boxer in its crate or playpen. Then, leave it alone for some time out. Containment should never be used as punishment, so do not yell or act annoyed when you confine your puppy. Simply make it clear that biting ends playtime.

Be sure everyone in the household is consistent in your Boxer’s training. If despite your best efforts, you cannot manage your Boxer’s destructive behavior, talk to your veterinarian, and seek professional training. A lifetime of safe, fun chewing and playing is more than worth the cost and effort of good training.

Young Boxers don’t understand most of what is expected of them, or know how convey their needs. Their small bladder size makes it impossible for them to “hold it” for very long, and it is up to you to accommodate these deficiencies. Bring your puppy outdoors a minimum of every two hours in the early stages of housebreaking. If dangerous weather conditions prevent this, be sure to place papers near the door as a substitute. With puppies, “what goes in, must come out…quickly!” You should take your Boxer outdoors for elimination approximately ten minutes after eating. Maintaining a regular feeding schedule helps prevent accidents.

When you bring your Boxer outdoors, be sure to use a leash, no matter how small your puppy is. A harness may be safest for your puppy at first. Boxers love to jump and play, but you should discourage this until business is taken care of! Keep your puppy on a short leash, and calmly walk to the same spot to “go” each time. Pick a word to speak each time your puppy goes, and repeat it only when your puppy eliminates outdoors.

As soon as your puppy “goes” outside, praise it for a job well done. A special treat given immediately after will serve as a powerful positive reinforcer. So will some play time! Especially at the start of housebreaking, spend some time playing outdoors after your puppy eliminates. Boxers who are dragged back inside as soon as they are finished “going” learn to “hold it” for as long as possible, to prolong their time outside of the house.

Confining your Boxer whenever it is not directly supervised prevents missed opportunities and accidents. Make use of a crate, carrier, or playpen to create a small area for your Boxer. Allow only enough space for your puppy to stand up, turn around, and stretch out in a prone position comfortably. Too big a space will defeat the purpose. You want to work with your Boxer’s natural instincts to keep its “den” clean, not teach it to pee in one corner and sleep in the other. If you are purchasing a crate, buy one that will accommodate your Boxer full grown. Boxers often become attached to their “dens” and make use of them long after housetrained. Many large crates feature dividers for adjusting their size as puppies grow.

Placing your Boxer in its confinement area for feeding can also help with housebreaking, as dogs usually prefer not to “mess” where they eat. Be sure to remove your Boxer’s collar whenever you place him in a crate or carrier to prevent a choking hazard.

Whenever you take your Boxer out of confinement, immediately bring it outside! Remove your Boxer gently and calmly, and save the excitement and praise for the moment your puppy eliminates outside.

There are two main learning theories that are applied in dog training, and familiarity with both will help you understand the science behind the methods used in training. The first is called Classical Conditioning, and is most often associated with Pavlov’s experiments with dogs. Pavlov sounded a bell prior to feeding his dogs, and in time his canine subjects responded to the bell with salivation. Many of us have seen this in action, with our Boxers’ drooling at the sound of the electric can opener. But what’s really going on?

Dogs and other animals react automatically to “primary” stimuli such as food or pain without learning. Through training, “secondary” stimuli (such as a ringing bell) that are associated with “primary” stimuli again and again begin to elicit a learned response. You can train your dog to respond to a clicker just as it would to a treat, once conditioning has occurred. Rewarding with a treat the moment your dog performs a desired behavior is no longer necessary: a click or praise will suffice as a reinforcer.

The theory of operant conditioning is also important to training. Its focus is the association of a behavior with a resulting consequence. In this case, the consequence is the stimulus. For this to be effective in dog training, the consequences must follow the behavior immediately, or the association will not take place. Again, a substitution may be used for the consequence (such as a click instead of a treat), provided an association between the primary and secondary stimuli style has already taken place via Classical Conditioning.

Stimuli that are added or given as a consequence are considered “positive;” those that are taken away are called “negative.” A stimulus aimed at increasing or strengthening a behavior is a “reinforcer,” while one that seeks to decrease or eliminate a behavior is a “punisher.” How effective individual reinforces and punishers are may vary, but the theory behind their effectiveness in training methodology is scientifically founded.

Once you understand some of the science behind training methods, it is easier to put them into practice, and keep your patience! Look for ways to use learning theory to your advantage in training your Boxer. Pay careful attention to positive reinforcers and punishers you might inadvertently introduce to your dog. What about negative ones? Be on the lookout for new, desirable behaviors you want to reinforce, and training will become a natural part of your dog’s life. With Boxers, opportunities are likely to be everywhere.

He or she will use positive reinforcement to elicit desirable behavior, and will focus on rewards, not punishment. Violent training methods that use physical pain, discomfort, or fear as a means of control or to force behavior should never be used when training a Boxer.

Unless it is completely unmanageable in social settings, consider a group class rather than private training for your Boxer. Group classes give your Boxer the benefit of interacting with other dogs of all types and sizes.
They learn to ignore distractions, and gain exposure to other people besides their owners and families. Dog-only lessons fail to teach owners how to interact appropriately with their dog, and this can be particularly damaging when the dog is a Boxer. Boxers are smart enough and ambitious enough to “train” their owners, given the opportunity.

If in doubt about your ability to take your Boxer to a group class, try one! The trainer will quickly tell you if private lessons are a more suitable alternative.

When choosing a trainer, investigate all of your options before making a decision. Start by asking for recommendations from your veterinarian, friends, or the humane society. Then, check the yellow pages for more options. Talk to each trainer individually, and ask plenty of questions. There is no government agency licensing trainers, so it is up to you to determine qualifications. What exactly are their qualifications? How and where were they educated as trainers?

How many years have they been training dogs? Do they have experience training Boxers? Can they provide references from Boxer owners? Chances are you will find a wide variety of answers among your prospects. Try making a list of pros and any cons for each trainer you call, and make a decision based on your overall impression.
Be sure to ask plenty of questions about group class formats, too. Class size should be limited to only a dozen or so dogs. There should be separate classes for puppies and adult dogs, as well as different levels based on former training experience.

Proof of vaccination should be required. Try to attend a class before signing up, and pay attention to the methods used, as well as the overall tone of the class. Is it somber and inhibiting for dogs and their owners, or fun and lively? While cost might be a consideration in selecting a trainer, try not to make it the deciding factor.
Training will likely cost a few hundred dollars, no matter which one you chose. This is a minimal expense for the long-term value of good training for you and your Boxer.

It has many implications, and misunderstandings about the goals of training often lead to serious trouble. You do the breed, yourself, your dog, and others around you an extreme disservice by failing to ensure your Boxer develops into a well-adjusted “good citizen.”

What are the characteristics of a well-adjusted, good citizen Boxer?

They are surprisingly similar to those traits we admire most in people we like the best. A well trained Boxer brings enjoyment to others, its owner, and itself. It’s a confident, friendly, well mannered dog we not only feel comfortable approaching, but are drawn to. It’s a dog we don’t pull our children or our pets away from when we see it coming.

This is a Boxer out and about in all kinds of public places: at the pet store, the beach, a parade, when camping, or in the park. It is ready for a friendly pat on its furrowed brow from everyone who passes by, and its owner just as eagerly enjoys compliments on both the dog’s beauty and demeanor.

Sound too good to be true? It shouldn’t! Setting high goals for your Boxer’s training is the first step in taking responsibility for its success. Any training program should involve the development of the very best social behavior, an appropriate sense of independence, and confidence everyone can recognize in your dog.

Excellent training not only enhances your Boxer’s quality of life, it promotes your dog’s safety and health, as well. A good citizen Boxer eagerly and appropriately responds to people of all ages and ethnicities, engaged in all sorts of activities. It is also calm and comfortable with a variety of other pets and wildlife it may encounter.

This ensures less containment and isolation of your Boxer, and also allows others to handle it when necessary. Veterinary care, grooming, and boarding should all be pleasurable experiences for typically friendly Boxers. It is simply a matter of effectively teaching them how to act appropriately in any circumstance they may encounter.

Not only can training enhance your Boxer’s quality of life by opening doors, you are far more likely to be able to identify health or safety issues with your dog and your home as a result of good training. Only if you know how your Boxer consistently reacts in a wide variety of situations will you be aware of a discrepancy that may indicate trouble.

Setting goals and developing an appropriate plan for your Boxer’s training is a challenging, but worthwhile endeavor. While conducting research, consider interviewing several trainers, consulting with breeders, and talk to your veterinarian. You might also want to contact the American Kennel Club, and obtain a copy of The AKC Canine Good Citizen Test (email info@akc.org) for additional guidance.

For basic obedience training, a simple flat buckling collar and a 4 to 6 foot leash is ideal. Double-stitched nylon is sturdy and long-lasting, and high quality nylon is even machine-washable. Avoid leather, as it shrinks and is easily chewed. Harnesses may be used on very young puppies, but avoid them for long term use, as they may promote pulling. Retractable leashes will encourage your Boxer to walk ahead of and “lead” you, and should also be avoided.

Choke chains and prong collars commonly used in training classes are designed to give owners maximum control over their dogs quickly. Owners “snap” the choke collar to gain their dog’s attention, and release it quickly to stop discomfort. Prong collars only apply pressure where the prongs push into the dog’s neck. Although they look more torturous, prong collars may actually be safer for your Boxer’s trachea and spine than regular choke collars. Used and fitted properly, either may help an owner gain control over a wild or unruly Boxer with little danger of physical harm. But control is forced upon the dog more than behavior is encouraged. Carefully consider how using choke chains or prong collars fits in with your overall training strategy before using them on your Boxer.

Head collars or head halters such as the Gentle Leader or Figure 8 Collar are another training equipment option. They fit over your Boxer’s head, and the leash is attached underneath its muzzle. They work by controlling the directional movement of the dog’s head. Once the direction of the head is controlled, the body follows. Like choke and prong collars, they raise concerns about forcing behavior and potentially creating resistance.

Despite their large build and tough appearance, Boxers are very sensitive dogs. They respond best to training that builds mutual respect between themselves and their owner. Most Boxers prefer to choose to behave, rather than being forced into submission. Dogs respond to training collars and harnesses differently, and you should never force your Boxer to use training equipment it does not respond well to. Should you decide on a specially designed training collar or harness, be certain you know how to use it, and fit your Boxer appropriately.

Consider them stepping stones, or temporary fixes to control or safety issues, rather than lifelong training solutions. Stay focused on the long-term goal, which is teaching your Boxer to be a happy, enthusiastic learner.

Start training your Boxer to walk on a leash at 8 weeks. Young puppies can be safely walked with a harness attached to a 4 to 6 foot leash. An adjustable, nylon harness is a good beginner’s item which will allow for some of your Boxer’s growth. Practice taking it on and off until you can do so quickly and easily. Squirming and wriggling is normal for a puppy first adjusting to a harness. Be patient, and give lots of praise once the harness is on. Your Boxer should always wear a collar, too, that is tagged for easy identification. This will make the transition to collar leading smooth later on, too.

Have your Boxer where its halter around the house without the lead attached. Gradually, start attaching the lead during feeding or when your puppy is tired. Let it hang loosely at your puppy’s side. Next, pick up the lead occasionally and follow your puppy around. Keep the leash slack, and do not pull or restrain your Boxer with it.

When you are ready for lead training, take your Boxer to a place with minimal distractions. Boxers are by nature fun-loving and energetic, so schedule training after a play session when your dog is somewhat tired out. Position yourself with the lead in your right hand and your dog on your left. Hold a toy in your left hand, and encourage your puppy to follow after it as you slowly move forward. Say “heel” when you both begin to walk. Stop after a few feet, let your Boxer play with the toy, and give lots of praise. Repeat several times, using the toy or a treat to guide your dog’s starts, stops, and position at your side.

If your Boxer becomes distracted or impatient, it may begin to pull. If you do not move forward when pulled, your Boxer will learn that only a slack leash lets him go forward, and brings treats and praise. When your Boxer stops pulling and the leash is slack, encourage him to return to you, and begin the process again. Once “heel” is mastered, be sure to practice with your Boxer in a variety of places.

If you cannot stop your Boxer from pulling in all directions on the lead or control lunges, seek professional training help. Only as a last resort should you consider purchasing a “no pull” harness or Gentle Leader. These are specially designed to make pulling uncomfortable or impossible. They may end unruly behavior, but should only be considered temporary solutions. The goal of lead training should always be to walk your Boxer with a regular collar and lead. The best training will teach your Boxer how to behave, not force it to.

Like other types of training, trick training requires a great deal of patience, and frequent and lavish rewards for the right behaviors. Boxers sometimes lose focus or become bored with tasks they find uninteresting. It helps to chose tricks your Boxer will find fun to perform. Teach the “focus” command prior to trick training, as well as basic obedience skills the tricks are based on. Train only one trick at a time, starting with easy ones, and pace your training to your Boxer’s learning pace.

“Shake Hands,” “Dance,” and “Fetch” are easy beginner tricks particularly suited to Boxers. They will help build up your Boxer’s confidence and skill quickly. Once they are mastered, look for other ways to combine and modify these basic fundamentals into more complex tricks.

To teach your Boxer to “Shake Hands,” begin in the “Sit” position and get its attention with the “Focus” command. Gently pick up your dog’s paw with one hand while giving a treat with the other. Praise lavishly whenever your dog raises its paw on command and receives its treat. Repeat, and see how fast your Boxer learns! Try teaching your Boxer to “Wave” and “Hide” it’s face with its paw once “Shake Hands” is mastered. You can even train your Boxer to turn light switches on and off with the same basic technique.

“Dance” is a simple trick based on the “sit” position. Begin by holding a treat above your Boxer’s nose until it jumps up on its hind legs. Say “Dance,” and give the toy to the dog while gently taking hold of its front legs. “Dance” together with your Boxer at first, guiding it by holding its front legs while it stands balanced on its rear ones. Do not pull or force your dog to stay in the standing position, simply reward the behavior as it occurs naturally. Eventually, see if your Boxer can perform the trick on its own. Then, try teaching “Beg” by encouraging your Boxer to sit while you support its front legs.

“Fetch” is best trained initially on a long lead. Once focused, toss your Boxer’s favorite toy a few feet away. Say “Fetch” while your dog runs or jumps to the toy. Praise it after the toy is picked up, then once again when your Boxer brings it to you for further play. Wait for the toy to be dropped, and praise and reward once again. Once “Fetch” is accomplished, you can move on to Frisbee, as well as teaching your Boxer to play Hide and Seek with specific toys it can learn to identify by name.